‘Every Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.